This electric longboard is designed for the ultimate carving experience no matter the terrain, and with a clever design, it can easily swap its wheels
This electric longboard is designed for the ultimate carving experience no matter the terrain, and with a clever design, it can easily swap its wheels
I love the things. I was a regular on r/electricskateboarding.
For the latter concerns, I can assuade them somewhat. Eskates are dangerous, and though you can stay quite safe with a low-performance board that won’t involve significant kinetic energy levels, I would not consider safety equipment optional with the class of board that evolve falls into. I personally wear a Fox Proframe as well as padded clothing by Lazy Rolling when riding my most powerful board.
I own four, saving up for my fifth, a FluxMotion AT2. The boards I currently own, in the order I bought them, are a Backfire G2T, Ownboard Bamboo, Exway Flex and Eovan GTS Pro. Each board I bought came with more power and range, finally culminating in the Eovan, my first and currently only board with VESC-based internals. It was the board with which I finally hit a level of performance that made me feel “alright, not gonna need more than this”.
The other three are all hobbywing based systems, which I at this point find to be an extremely reliable ESC brand. Exway is their customer-facing board brand, and many other board-designers use Hobbywing internals. (Backfire, Linnpower)
The only real competitor is the VESC open source design standard. VESC is extremely DIY friendly to the point you can hook a board up to a PC and alter every control curve, amperage limit, RPM limit, etc. You can get telemetry displays, bluetooth modules for wireless config and metrics, all kinds of remotes, they can be daisy chained to drive any number of motors you might want…
New Hobbywing ESCs can have some basic settings altered with a user-fiendly phone app, and usually aren’t configurable for use with anything but the motors for which they were set up at the factory.
Unless you get something extremely cheap with single-wheel drive, almost ALL boards will have a dual-motor setup. This means the braking IS redundant. Dual motors will also mean dual ESCs, one for each motor. It’s theoretically possible for the control electronics of one “side” to fail while the other side continues to function.
But the only real point of hardware failure I’ve experienced during my tens of thousands of kilometers ridden, are the drive belts. A non-issue on hub-drive and gear-drive boards.
It is extremely unlikely for both belts to fail at the same time, and you will not even experience some huge jolt when it happens. I usually only notice it has happened because the board will start trying to turn a tiny bit when braking/accelerating. Assuming the second belt holds, the board will continue to function nearly normally, able to accelerate and brake with only one operating motor, though peak output will obviously become compromised.
I have never had a board suddenly turn off, I have never had a remote suddenly lose connection, and I have never had a board shoot off or suddenly brake without my intending it.
Should the remote suddenly turn off or lose the connection for some other reasons, both VESC and Hobbywing based boards are able to respond by smoothly transitioning from whatever state the board was in at the time of losing connection, to full braking. The board basically goes into a “no-input-being-received” state and will come to a stop in a way that doesn’t jolt the rider.
Thumb wheel control remotes also calibrate every time they are turned on, if you touch the control wheel while one is turning on, it will complain and tell you to stop. Once you do, or if you didn’t touch it, it will detect center, and then become ready for use. Pushing forward will accelerate the board, pulling back will slow it down. There is no way to try and do both at the same time, and “neutral” is determined by wherever the wheel gets pulled by the spring every single time the remote is turned on. It will never drift.
The one runaway scenario I feel a newbie should know about, is over-voltage shut-down. This occurs when braking so much that the battery regens and charges itself past full. In order to prevent the battery from catching fire, the ESC will in these cases stop braking, or turn off completely. Most boards will give you plenty of warning by vibrating the remote constantly when this begins to happen, with more than enough time to come to a complete stop instead of continuing to brake down a hill. And that is about the only way this can actually happen, and you would have to be doing it right after charging the board, too.
I’ve gotten the warning a couple times when heading out with a full board, when the first thing I do is start heading down a hill. But it’s never gone past the warning, I just step off and walk down the hill, and as soon as I can, drain the battery a bit by riding on flat ground.
Thanks for the writeup! Any recommendations on a kit for something mellow? I’m just interested in something that can climb hills and brake reliably. I picked up an Omen bamboo drop through if that helps narrow down potential kits.