The reverse of a question I asked on here a while ago.
Steam Deck
Basically every Valve product and software.
have you not seen tf2’s state?
In Vavles defense, they proclaimed TF2 to be a “Hat Simulator” and I suppose they delivered on the advertised product…
One of the only brands I would ever promote, Darn Tough socks.
Wear em out, ship them back, order a free pair. It’s that easy and they are the most comfortable, durable socks I have ever worn. Won’t ever buy another brand.
I’ve worn mine long and hard and haven’t gotten to test out the warranty yet, the first pair I bought is probably closing in on a decade and nearly indistinguishable from pairs that are several years newer. Even if they don’t honor their warranty for some reason I feel like I’ve gotten my money’s worth and then some.
Do you use those for everyday wear?
Not op. Yes.
Also not OP.
Also yes.
Thirdly not op. Prefer them over any of my other sock-tions.
Also also yes
Fourth not OP. Wear them in my work boots every day, even when it’s hot as shit.
Fifth not OP. I do not wear them everyday. But that’s mainly because I don’t own a pair.
Wood glue, no particular brand recommendations, is one of the pew products I trust to do exactly what it claims to - glue wood.
I wonder if there is any bad wood glue out there. I use it quite a bit and I don’t think i ever used the same brand twice.
For some reason I have a thought in my head that I don’t like Elmer’s wood glue. I don’t know why, I don’t remember it ever letting me down.
White Elmer’s glue is pretty much the same formula as their “washable” school glue. It bonds wood quite strongly but it tends to be slimier than wood glue so when you go to clamp the boards together they tend to slip around out of orientation. It’s not as fun to work with as yellow carpenter’s glues which tend to be tackier so the boards don’t slip around as much.
Titebond 3. It’s a pretty easy choice; it has one of, if not the highest strengths of wood glues on the market, and it’s water resistant. If you want the wood to break before the glue does, that’s the stuff you want.
That is usually what I go with, because I normally only keep one bottle of wood glue around and it covers pretty much any use case I could ever have for wood glue being waterproof, safe for indirect food contact, etc.
But honestly, for general gluing furniture together and such, even the cheapest no-name brands of wood glue have always done just fine. Pretty much any wood glue out there is stronger than any wood you’re likely getting the be gluing (inb4 some carpentry nerd chimes in with some rare wood that only grows in New Zealand or something that is stronger than steel or something)
I’ve seen plenty of bonds on furniture fail, rather than the wood. It seems most typical on things that are a dowelled construction rather than a mortise and tenon joint. I’ve seen it most often with chairs, since they’re under a lot of stresses. Maybe I’m in a uniquely bad environment that’s harsh on wood glue; I don’t know.
Chairs, like wooden dining room chairs, are some of the most dynamically stressed woodworking projects. A bookcase may carry hundreds of pounds of books but you put the books on the shelf and they mostly just stay there. A dining room chair has people sitting down, scooting forward, shifting around, leaning back, standing up etc. so there’s a lot of force moving around trying to bend the frame members and shift the tenons around in their mortises. This often causes the glue, or the wood immediately around it, to fracture under repetitive stress and causes loose joints.
Some woodworkers prefer to use hide glue (or its modern synthetic equivalent) rather than PVA glue specifically because it isn’t as strong, and because the bond can be released with heat. That allows the glue to fail while the wood itself remains intact, and then a chair with a failed joint can be disassembled and repaired. A chair assembled with PVA is likely to break in the middle of a board or dowel and is impossible to disassemble in any intentional way.
Bone conduction headphones
Have a recommended brand or style?
I use whatever the premium Shokz product was 4 years ago. They have a new model that’s supposed to have better sound quality. I think it’s the open run pro 2. That’s what I’d get if I were buying another pair
Litter Robot
I’ve been thinking about getting one. Which model do you have, and how long have you had it?
Had it for over 5 years, LitterRobot 3. Get the extras (ramp, the plastic cap piece that keeps more litter in).
Never had a problem with mine. Canmt speak to the 4 but I feel like it wouldn’t be worse
Whoops I missed your reply. Cheers!
Its all good, dont listen to the naysayers. Its a beautiful thing
